GR20: A Comprehensive Guide to Conquering Corsica’s Legendary Trail

The GR20 in Corsica, renowned as one of the most challenging hikes in Europe, beckons adventurers with its rugged beauty and diverse landscapes. Completing this trail in 2023, I wanted to put together as comprehensive a guide as possible to help anyone considering taking on the trail in 2024.

I have broken down the article into the following sections to help you find the information that you are looking for.

Understanding the GR20

Traversing approximately 180 kilometers across Corsica, the GR20 is divided into the northern and southern sections, each presenting unique challenges and scenic vistas. From the towering peaks of Monte Cinto to the dense forests of Vizzavona, the trail offers a journey through nature’s stunning array of landscapes. My first sight of the Corsican mountains bathed in sunrise remains an unforgettable moment of awe.

Pre-Hike Planning for the GR20

Planning is crucial for the GR20. Each stage presents its own set of challenges, and understanding them is key to a successful hike. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the stages (North to South), informed by HiiKER’s detailed guide:

1. Calenzana to Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu – 11 km, 1,360 m elevation gain.
2. Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu to Refuge de Carozzu – 6.5 km, 750 m elevation gain.
3. Refuge de Carozzu to Ascu Stagnu – 7 km, 770 m elevation gain.
4. Ascu Stagnu to Tighjettu – 6 km, 620 m elevation gain.
5. Tighjettu to Castel di Vergio – 14 km, 710 m elevation change.
6. Castel di Vergio to Manganu – 15 km, 620 m elevation gain.
7. Manganu to Petra Piana – 8 km, 800 m elevation gain.
8. Petra Piana to L’Onda – 9 km, 720 m elevation.
9. L’Onda to Vizzavona – 16 km, 1,230 m descent.
10. Vizzavona to Bergeries d’E Capanelle – 10 km, 650 m elevation gain.
11. Bergeries d’E Capanelle to Bocca di Verdi – 16 km, 850 m elevation change.
12. Bocca di Verdi to Refuge d’Usciolu – 17 km, 1,100 m ascent.
13. Refuge d’Usciolu to Refuge d’Asinau – 17 km, 1,200 m elevation change.
14. Refuge d’Asinau to Bavella – 7 km, steep climb to Bavella Pass.
15. Bavella to Conca – 18 km, 1,100 m descent.

Accommodation on the GR20

The GR20 features several refuges that require advance booking, and these bookings are date-specific. Unexpected delays, like bad weather, can disrupt your schedule, so carrying a lightweight tent is advisable for flexibility and emergency shelter.

Traveling to the GR20

Reaching the GR20 requires some planning, as Corsica is an island located off the coast of mainland France. The best airport to fly into for accessing the GR20 is Bastia Poretta Airport, located in the northeast of Corsica. Bastia serves as a convenient gateway to the island, offering several flight options from major cities in France and other European destinations.

If direct flights to Corsica are not available, there are convenient alternatives from Marseille and Nice, two major cities in the South of France. These options combine air, sea, and land travel, offering a scenic and enjoyable journey to the GR20.

From Marseille

1. By Air: Regular flights connect Marseille to Bastia, Ajaccio, and other Corsican airports. These short flights are an efficient way to reach the island and then proceed to the trailheads.
2. By Ferry: Ferries from Marseille to Corsica are a popular option. They sail to Bastia, Ajaccio, and other ports. The ferry journey offers beautiful views of the Mediterranean and can be a relaxing way to start your hiking adventure. Once you arrive in Corsica, you can use local transportation to reach the trailheads.

From Nice

1. By Air: Nice also offers frequent flights to various Corsican airports. This quick air journey is convenient for international travelers who land in Nice.
2. By Ferry: Taking a ferry from Nice to Corsica is another viable option. Ferries usually go to Bastia and other Corsican ports. The ferry trip is longer than from Marseille but is equally scenic and enjoyable.

To the trailhead

1. To Calenzana (Northern Trailhead): Calenzana, the starting point for the northern section of the GR20, can be reached from Bastia by bus or rental car. The journey takes about 2.5 to 3 hours. There are regular bus services from Bastia to Calvi, and from Calvi, you can catch a local bus or taxi to Calenzana.
2. To Conca (Southern Trailhead): For those starting from the southern end at Conca, the journey from Bastia is longer, typically taking around 3 to 4 hours. The most convenient way is to rent a car, but there are also bus services available. Buses from Bastia to Porto-Vecchio are frequent, and from Porto-Vecchio, you can take a taxi or a local bus to Conca.

Once you have completed the trail, you should be able to figure out the return journey with the reverse of whatever method you used from the above.

Recommended Gear and Equipment for the GR20

The right gear is essential for a successful hike on the GR20. The trail is challenging enough as it is so adding unnecessary weight will only make it even more challenging. As I hiked the trail in September (more on that below), the weather was quite mild and warm at times, so I didn’t require any special cold weather equipment.

As mentioned above, the refuges are tight (some take max 25 people) and are used by people other than GR20 hikers. It is highly recommended to bring a tent and sleep system. Again, go light. The first night might be a light sleep, but the elevation gain each day will put you right to sleep as you progress.

Here is a list of the items I used on my hike of the GR20.

• Backpack: Atom Packs 30-litre ultra-light bag – provides comfort and sufficient storage without unnecessary weight.
• Tent: MSR Elixir 3 – offers reliable shelter in various weather conditions.
• Sleeping Bag: The Vango Cobra 200 – ensures warmth and comfort during rest.
• Sleeping Pad: A simple foam pad – for insulation from the cold ground.
• Trail Runners: Brooks Cascadia trail runners – offer excellent grip and support across different terrains.
• Trekking Poles: Leki Vertical K poles – aid in stability, especially on steep ascents and descents.
• Cooking System: The MSR pocket stove – compact and efficient for meal preparation.
• Water Filter: While I used an MSR water filter, a Sawyer system could be a preferable alternative for ease of use and versatility.

Best Time of Year to Hike the GR20

Timing is crucial when planning your GR20 adventure. The ideal time to hike the trail is between late June and early September. During these months, the weather is most favorable, with warmer temperatures and less likelihood of snow at higher elevations, which can be a significant concern outside this window.

However, it’s important to note that July and August are the busiest months, coinciding with European summer holidays. While the trail buzzes with activity and all the refuges are open, it also means more crowded paths and accommodations. For a more solitary experience, late June or early September are preferable, offering a balance of good weather and fewer hikers.

Be mindful of Corsica’s climate variability. The island can experience sudden weather changes, with storms not uncommon, even in summer. Therefore, always prepare for a range of conditions, regardless of when you hike.

For me, hiking in early September was a sweet spot. The weather was stable yet the trail less crowded. There was still a decent number of hikers on the trail, but having spoken to others that hiked earlier in the season, it seemed to be a lot more busy.

Physical and Mental Preparation for the GR20

As I am an experienced hiker and trail runner, I was in good physical shape for this trail. But in the weeks leading up to my trip, I focused specifically on my mobility and strength. I incorporated 2-3 sessions per week in the gym, focusing on lower body and core strength. I followed a course set by Chase Mountains on youtube, which helped me build the strength needed to tackle the big days of elevation.

Mentally, the GR20 can be taxing. While the spectacular views can distract you from the gruelling physical challenge, it is easy to fall into a “pain cave” on the days that are not going so well. I didn’t experience them too much myself, and you may likely not either, but accepting that these days and moments will come and not fearing them is key.

Remember to take regular breaks and not try to push too hard. You’re there to enjoy yourself.

Navigating on the GR20

Navigating the GR20 involves a blend of technology and traditional map-reading skills. While the trail is well-marked for the most part, HiiKER was invaluable for those moments when the fog came in and at elevation, the trail is almost impossible to find. Being able to read the local IGN maps to see more detail of my surroundings was crucial to having a safe experience on the trail.

Water management is crucial, particularly at higher altitudes where fresh water is scarce. Meanwhile, food at refuges, though available, can be expensive. Bringing along lightweight, high-energy food options and cooking can be a more economical choice.

Beyond the trail – The heritage of the GR20

The GR20 is not just a hiking trail; it’s a cultural journey through the heart of Corsica. Along the route, you’ll encounter charming towns, taste unique local cuisines, and come across sites of historical significance.

Towns to Visit on the GR20

• Calvi: Before or after your hike, spend some time in Calvi. This beautiful town on the northwest coast of Corsica is known for its stunning citadel overlooking the Mediterranean. The cobbled streets and vibrant harbor area are perfect for relaxing and soaking in Corsican culture.
• Corte: Located in the heart of Corsica, Corte is a historic town that hikers often pass near. It’s the former capital of Corsica and home to the University of Corsica. The citadel of Corte is a must-visit for its breathtaking views and historical significance.
• Conca: The southern terminus of the GR20, Conca, offers a serene conclusion to your journey. This small village is a quintessential Corsican settlement, with traditional architecture and a laid-back atmosphere.

Local Foods to Try on the GR20

Corsican cuisine is a delightful fusion of French and Italian influences with its unique twist. Here are a few must-try items:

• Charcuterie: Corsica is famous for its charcuterie, especially varieties like “Prisuttu” (dry-cured ham) and “Figatellu” (smoked liver sausage). As a veggie, I steered clear. But I am told it is fantastic. I stuck to the cheese!
• Cheese: Traditional Corsican cheeses such as “Brocciu,” a fresh cheese similar to ricotta, is often used in local dishes. Not amazing on it’s own. But the french do know their cheeses!
• Chestnut-based dishes: Chestnuts are a staple in Corsican cooking. Try “Pulenta,” a chestnut flour porridge, and other chestnut-based pastries.

Historically Significant Sites on the GR20

• Monte Cinto: While not a man-made site, Monte Cinto, Corsica’s highest peak, is significant for its panoramic views and the sense of accomplishment it offers. The area is steeped in natural beauty and is a symbol of Corsica’s rugged landscape.
• Villages along the GR20: Numerous old villages dot the landscape along the GR20. Each offers a glimpse into traditional Corsican life.

Did you find this article helpful? Do you have any questions about the GR20? Let us know in the comments.